Wednesday 28 September 2016

Between Four Worlds



The setting sun, a huge red ball in an explosion of vivid crimson and golden rays, hung over the tops of the giant mahogany trees to the east of Kumasi. Its brilliant light etched out the sharp-angled outlines of the tall Ministries buildings in the business district of Odum separating our area Bompata from the residential zone of Nhyiaeso beyond whose colonial bungalows tropical jungle forest stretched into the distance. The rusty-brown zinc roofs striding over the walls of our whitewashed house like a cowboy’s outspread legs threw long shadows across the beaten red soil in front of the house. Beyond the laterite soil began the pebble-tarred Station road.  
            My father, whom we called Papa, a tall, scrawny man with a wax printed cloth thrown over a smudged singlet and thick khaki shorts he had gotten as a gift for good work done from
one of the expatriate living in the bungalows of Nhyiaeso, stood at the edge of the road and squinted up the Albion truck where the distended muscles twitched on the thick arms and the broad backs of the driver’s mates straining to load bulky furniture and other voluminous luggage onto the rack.
            Our neighbors, who had appeared at the arched entrances of their houses, stared a while in embarrassment and with compassion at Papa. Soon, some whispered to each other and then one approached Papa like a cock stalking a corn seed beside someone’s leg.
            “Papa Anwona—“Anwona was the local Twi word for our Ewe tribe“—where are you going?” Baba Musa, the muezzin, asked in a surprise tone in his voice rendered loud and mellifluous by calling the Moslems to prayer five times a day.
            Papa lowered his long face and smirked through his thick moustache scattered with grey hair. “I’m not leaving,” he assured in his voice made husky by incantations, smiling to reveal teeth colored with cola nuts and cardamom seeds. “I’m taking these home and then I’ll be back.”
            A broad smile split Baba Musa’s round, withered-leather face. “That’s relieving to hear,” he breathed. “I thought you were leaving for good.”
            “No,” Papa shook his head; “I’m not leaving for good.”
            Baba Musa fingered his forehead and chest—the way the Moslems do at the end of prayers—and then shook hands warmly with Papa, patting his arm. “Please don’t leave,” he pleaded. “And let’s see who’ll come to arrest you here,” he yelled in a truculent tone. Baba Musa was feared in the community. A World War II veteran, he single-handedly arrests armed robbers. People rumoured he used charms. Baba Musa went back in his short-legged gait and whispered with the neighbors who grinned and shook each other’s hand. They felt
relieved that Papa—one of their oldest neighbors—was not leaving in compliance with their government’s expulsion order against African aliens. Many had asked him to pretend to be a Ghanaian Ewe from Keta, which is where our ancestors left for present-day Togo a little over three centuries before.
            For months now our parents have been whispering about whether to brave the government’s order with its risks of possible attack by mobs or arrest by the police or to go back home and face other risks of unemployment and misery. I scrutinized Papa’s face for any signs of anxiety but all I saw was the usual blank gaze, twitching to accompany the loading of the goods onto the groaning, dangling truck. Then I turned to look at my mother whom we call Nagan—elder mother. She was a short, fair-colored woman with deep dimples which gave her a perpetual smiling look. She sat serene like an adventurer overseeing the final preparations of his ship about to sail for a famed treasure island. To the other side, my father’s other wife whom we called Navi—younger mother— sat pensive on a stool; her work-thickened arms thrust into her lap and watched the packing as if it was the casket of a loved one being hauled onto a hearse. She was a tall, dark-colored woman with thick eyebrows.  
            Suddenly Papa threw a gaze behind him; his deep-set eyes narrowed into slits and his face hardened into a scowl. He stared hard at Navi for sometime, munching his thin lips.
            “Are you still sitting down there like a peacock instead of lugging your things here?” he barked at her. “This truck isn’t going to take any more luggages once the rack is covered and the tarpaulin tied.”
            Navi smirked. Nagan stood up at the same time as she.
            “No, I didn’t mean you,” Papa said with a sweet smile to Nagan. “Yours can be loaded at any time.” He waved gently to Nagan who sank back proudly into her wide chair, stretched the right leg and crossed the left onto it; folded her lean arms over her huge chest and smiled like a happy queen.
            “Biased husband,” Navi grumbled loud enough for Nagan to hear but not loud enough for Papa to catch. Those were the days when wives couldn’t openly express their disapproval of their husbands.
            I stared at Navi in a surreptitious manner and immediately took off my gaze. Those were the days when parents hid their weaknesses from their siblings who also pretended not to have noticed anything. Navi’s small eyes had been sucked in like the antennae of a disturbed snail and her medium-sized lips were thrust forward and moved tensely but wordlessly.  “Wouldn’t you hurry up?” Papa howled.
            “Why are you shouting at me as if I were a child?” Navi retorted; my eyes widened and my mouth fell open. I had never seen her challenge Papa.
The lids of Papa’s eyes tightened and his lips were compressed together. “Did I hear right?” he yelled, cocking his ear. The mates stopped the work and stared at them.
            Mamie Dufie, the elder of our two landladies, a dried woman with ebony complexion, bright round eyes, and a kind smile talked while she hurried in our direction: “Papa Anwona, this isn’t a time for quarrels. All of you are under pressure, why add more trouble?”
            Papa glowered at Navi. “Efoevi’s mother gives me a lot of troubles,” Papa spluttered. He calls his wives by their first children’s names.
            “It’s more important to pray for this storm to be over instead of tearing at each other.”
            “I’ve heard,” Papa said, gave Navi a long, hard look and turned his attention to the mates again.
            Mamie Dufie joined her younger sister, Mamie Akosua, chocolate-colored, plump and reserved, and their children. In their quests for daughters, both of them had remarried several times. I had never seen any of their husbands. Our parents explained that Ashantis being matriarchal, their women often didn’t need their husbands except for giving them children.
            “Papa Anwona,” Papa Kwamena, a Fante co-tenant, a railway ticket inspector called jokingly, “aren’t you feeling the heat? Wouldn’t you take off your singlet?” He tittered.
            Papa peered at his singlet, nodded quietly and smirked.
            The remark jarred me back to class four at A. M. E. Zion Primary School at Asafo. We were taking our end of year class photograph. While the Ashantis throw cloth over their bare chests, we Ewes wear a jumper underneath it. Whenever our people went drumming and dancing at the patch of land facing the railway workshop, amused natives would remark: “Strange Anwona people, why can’t you choose between wearing a cloth and a shirt?” I would never think of wearing a cloth over anything more than a bare chest. I still don’t know what came into me that day, but I had my rich, multi-colored, woven kente cloth over my singlet and presented myself to the photographer to fit me into the group.
            “Hey you,” Mr. Otoo, my class teacher, shouted in his teacher’s voice, “this isn’t an Anwona show; take off your singlet!”
            I jumped and stared at my chest while the whole class burst into hilarious laughter.
            The Ashantis were so culturally imperialistic that we felt ashamed to speak our language even among ourselves at home. The Ewe syllable contains a series of gb, kp which sound like explosions or gun shots; our local friends made fun of us by imitating explosions
and guns going off. Somehow Ewe is to Twi what German is to English. So ashamed were we of our heavy-sounding language that we couldn’t master it well—although that was the only language our parents spoke to us at home—till we went back home and stayed for many years.
            “When will you master your own language?” was a remark our parents often hurled at us.
            “Are you out of your mind?” they would curse and bite their lips when we answered in Twi.
            We wondered why our parents couldn’t understand us. They had grown up at home and when they immigrated to Kumasi lived almost exclusively among their kindred so much so that they couldn’t master Twi. We giggled anytime they spoke broken Twi drawing hilarious laughter from their Ashanti neighbors and making us bow our heads in shame.
            I remember in middle school form one. Pupil teachers had come on teaching practice. On the last day our teacher, an Ewe, decided to teach us an Ewe song. I began to tremble while my classmates taunted me and imitated our out-of-tune way of singing. I asked to go to the toilet and spent the afternoon roaming Asafo. When I came back during closing assembly, my classmates pointed fingers at me and laughed their heads off. Some mimicked our strenuous way of dancing, singing: “Anwona, boto, sikli boto.” How I wished I had a hole to disappear into! We shunned Ewe drumming and dancing because Ashantis made such a mockery of it.
While we turned our backs on our Ewe styles and norms which our parents heaped on us, we adjusted to Ashanti values and styles which made our parents mad. Except for our names which gave us off, we succeeded in totally integrating into the Ashanti culture and felt
at ease. We even found solutions for some of our names. Since some of our names were similar to the Ashanti ones, especially those of the days, (maybe because of our common Hebrew origins) some of us did not hesitate to adopt the Ashanti ones. For example, the brother I come after was called Etsri. To make it sound Ashanti, he changed it to Okyere. Efoe became Ofori, and Mesan became Mensah. Those like me who couldn’t find equivalents felt miserable, especially so when we started school. The teachers couldn’t spell Ewe names and wrote anything they fancied. Penoukou became Panoku, which still amused the natives. Thus names had different spellings depending on the locality and depending on whether one lived in French or a British territory. While finally we were spelling our family name Penuku in Ghana, Dzagli was writing his Penoukou in Dahomey. This is even better than other families who were Jalloh in an Anglophone country and Diallo in a francophone one.
After the loading of the truck was completed, Papa went into the women’s room of our two-room apartment. I followed him and peered in at the door between the two rooms. At the far end Papa parted the white calico partition soiled with fingerprints, blood stains and dirt and knelt before Odzanogano, his deity.
It was a meter-high terracotta bust with cowries for eyes and gaping holes for ears, mouth and nostrils. It was decked with offerings of dried animal blood, food, and palm oil. Around it were weird objects and smaller deities made of wood, stone, skin, iron, animal skulls and baked clay. Padlocks, nails, feathers, talismans, bells, and mirrors decorated them.
Papa took a swig of gin and spat-sprayed it on the deities. He picked up a six-tongue bell and slapping it on the floor, recited a prayer. At the end he threw broken halves of cola into the air and read the message made by the combination of backs and insides.
            With a coconut cup he scooped water from an earthenware pot buried before the gods. He balanced the cup in his left palm and spoke to Odzanogano: “Will we have a successful journey and will those to be left behind be safe?”
            The cup dangled and tumbled on its circumference into the pot. Papa scooped the water again and twice the god confirmed that the journey would be successful and those left behind would be safe. Papa bent down and kissed the ground and rubbed his palm over his face.
            Now that he said it before the gods I no longer doubted: Nagan and we her children were really to go and Navi and hers were to stay behind. Why, I wondered and wished the gods had prevented us from going but then I remembered the lesson from catechism asking us not to send any requests to gods. That was another aspect of our family: while Papa and his wives never went to church, they always forced us to attend mass at the St. Peter’s Catholic Cathedral.
            Papa, Nagan and we piled into the truck, grinning and waving. Our half-brothers and half-sisters ogled us, their chests heaving. Then the engine roared into life and they burst into tears. The truck lurched away and Navi waved as if to a dead being carried away for internment. On this day, I, barely fifteen, faced the realities that the innocence of youth had made me ignore: that my family’s history was fashioned by negotiation among four ambivalent worlds: culturally, we were Ewes—otherwise Ge-Mina--, a dominant tribe in Togo but a minority one in Ghana, living in the dominant Ashanti one; in terms of nationality we didn’t belong here at all, our country was elsewhere; thirdly we were part Christians and part animists; and finally we were a polygamous family apparently living in such perfect
harmony that I was blind to its shortcomings. My father’s home going opened my eyes wide to these realities the way childbirth gives sight to a baby.
            Nagan, Navi, and Papa were steeped in oral tradition which they recounted often and this helped me to reconstruct my family’s history.
            Our grandfather, Sedaya, married late in his forties, to a woman from Keta-Asukope, his village. His only picture shows a quiet, sad-looking man with sunken-in cheeks and gaunt eyes. Papa’s mother however, is said to be fair-colored; a complexion Papa inherited from her. She died at Papa’s birth around 1907, earning him the name Apevienyiku—my child’s birth caused my death. Sedaya remarried a woman from Vogan. Soon a son came and was named Dzagli. At this time, Germans, who had colonized the present territory of Togo and former British Togoland in 1884 and named it Togo from the Ge-Mina word togodo—behind the river—when someone indicated the residence of King Mlapa whom the German emissaries wanted to meet to sign a protectorate treaty with, needed workers for the other German territory of Cameroon. Grandfather applied and got recruited as cook. He had to leave his wife and children behind. Apevienyiku was later enrolled at the German school at the administrative base of Zebe, thirty minutes walk from Asukope.
            Apevienyiku returned from school one evening to see his father. Sedaya, who had spent barely four years in Cameroon and who had come home six months earlier on leave, was groaning. He could only whisper incoherently. He had lost weight and looked smaller than his 1.75 meters. Apevienyiku’s heart missed a beat to discover his father’s fingers curled into a fist as tight as set plaster. He sighed and shook his head. The family rushed to a clairvoyant.
            “He’s been charmed,” the wizened old man said. “People in the village are jealous of him working with white people. Can a person with curled fingers cook?”
            Asukope was a village feared in the environs for its juju powers. The village was founded by Asu, a twin hunter, who was one of the Ewe warriors from Keta in present-day Ghana who had accompanied the Ge emigrating from Accra, capital of Ghana. When going hunting, Asu whetted his arrow on a rock on the outskirts of the forest of Glidzi. Anytime he did this, he killed a lot of game. Asu deduced that the rock had a soul, and he established a village there. Other hunters joined him and the village grew. Hunting being a risky job, those practising it are noted for their love for magical powers; hence the village also grew in juju powers. A two-meter high deity said to walk about at night with thunderous steps and rumored to be erected on a human sacrifice stands guard at the entrance to the village.
            Sedaya knew how dangerous Asukope was but refused to be treated by the clairvoyant. He had been converted by the Germans and he believed only Jesus could fight Satan. He therefore spent his days in the Portuguese style church at Glidzi praying for a miracle. Instead of that his health continued to deteriorate. Apevienyiku would return from school and fetch firewood in the moist forest east of the village. Then he would return west to fish on the Gbaga River, beyond which marshy land stretched right into savannah grassland. Finally he would attend to his father in the thatch-roofed, triangular mud hut surrounded by a brick wall.
A year later Sedaya’s condition became critical. Alarmed, the family asked around and got word that a powerful herbalist at Agbanto in the neighboring French colony of Dahomey healed such ailments. Apevieniku was in class four and Dzagli in one. They had to drop out of
school and accompany their father for treatment. Dzagli, being young, went back to French school there but Apevienyiku never stepped into a classroom again.
            Agbanto is a small fishing and farming village hugging a hill. Grandfather was taken into a shrine over the hill for treatment. After months he was getting better when another problem surfaced. They had run out of money. The family met and decided to pawn the family land. A year later grandfather got fit enough to do light work with the help of his children. The healer claimed he would get him totally cured.
            Soon came time to pay to reclaim the family land from the pawn. When they couldn’t do so many months after the deadline, the pawnbroker threatened to sell the land. There was no greater shame than not having an ancestral land. How can one prove that one’s ancestors were one of the authentic members of the village and on which land would future generations live?
            Like many colonized Togolese, the Gold Coast fascinated Apevienyiku. A British colony, gold, timber and other resources had spread its fame. The British colonialists were not so hard on the indigenous people. This contrasted sharply with either the Germany colony of Togo or the French-colonized Dahomey which later became Benin. Both territories boasted no resources. The Germans wanted to turn Togo into a model colony. The forced labor used to achieve this obliged many Togolese to emigrate to the Gold Coast. The trend got worsened with France’s harsher colonial policies when the United Nations placed Togo under their protectorate after the German’s lost the Second World War.
            Besides, the immigrants who came on holidays either during their leave period or during the annual Yeke-Yeke festival brought home money, expensive clothes, golden trinkets, and talked of work readily available in the Gold Coast. Above all they rebuilt their
family houses with thicker mud walls and roofed them with zinc. One didn’t have to worry about repairing the roof at each rainy season which came twice a year from February to May and July to September. But what really knocked people over was the colonial helmets the returnees wore to go round and greet people. Colonial administrators used them.
Apevienyiku knew that money was needed to continue the treatment for his father. They also needed to redeem the family land. Where else to realize those dreams than where the money was?
Apevienyiku sent a letter to a maternal uncle who was head of the southern Togolese community in Kumasi. The reply came three months later. The uncle promised to send him money when someone was coming home.
            Two months later Apevienyiku received a letter from his uncle. It contained money for his father and a message for him to see a kinsman in the village who will take him to Kumasi. He informed his father.
            “Go,” he said, “and save the family land.”
            Apevienyiku didn’t want to leave his father in Agbanto and he didn’t want them to lose the family land either. But between the two the choice was clear.
            A week later Apevienyiku hugged his father and brother and set out for Asukope. Two days later, he and the kinsman left for Kumasi. When they crossed the Volta River into Gold Coast territory Apevienyiku felt like kissing the soil. They continued to Accra. Apevienyiku’s eyes widened. He had never seen such a big city before. Cars and trucks rumbled about and people milled on the sandy sidewalks. Many houses were large and painted. He felt glad to have made the journey to the Gold Coast. Soon a Bedford truck was rumbling them through a
tropical rainforest towards Kumasi. The farther they went, the denser and the colder the forest became.
            In Kumasi Apevienyiku found a city not as big as Accra but nevertheless impressive. The green city was vibrant, some roads were tarred, a few had street lights; the houses were large and whitewashed, some even stood one or two storeys high, the top floors fashioned out of wood. Back home Apevienyiku was used to seeing people shabbily dressed clutching cutlasses going to farm in the morning. In Kumasi he found people in pressed clothes hurrying to work in sawmills, factories, and even offices. He bit his lips for not completing his studies.
            Uncle Eklu, a huge man with smiling eyes and a fluffy royal cap thrown over his large bald head, took him one evening to Anloga where the Togolese community had established a flourishing carpentry estate. Apevienyiku was apprenticed to a Mr. Senaya, a carpenter who worked with the United African Company—UAC—and had a prosperous private workshop there. Like Uncle Eklu, Mr. Senaya lived in one of the big, solid, storey buildings being put up in new areas of Kumasi by wealthy cocoa farmers. It had a big, cemented courtyard and large glass windows.
            The work at Anloga was hard. The apprentices worked from sunup to sundown and ate once a day, at noon. Mistakes and insubordination were not tolerated. The chief apprentice flogged one for those. Then, in the evening when Mr. Senaya came, he administered the coup de grace which sometimes consisted of standing still while holding boulders in the hand for hours. Although customers came to the workshop to buy, often in the afternoons the apprentices carried tables, chairs, boxes, and other artefacts to the Kumasi Central Market to sell.
            The market was about five kilometers away. The apprentices passed by Amakom—where Apevienyiku lived with Uncle Eklu,—Asafo, then he branched through Bompata—where he was to stay for years—and then got to the market. The first time he saw the Kumasi Central Market, the white of Apevienyiku’s eyes showed above the iris. It was twenty times bigger than Asukope. The market stood in a valley. The maze of stalls and hangars dazzled Apevienyiku. One could easily get lost in there, he thought.
             They would sit at a corner of the market displaying their wares to passers-by. They never went back with a single item, for that was forbidden. They had to sell everything by all means. If they managed to sell above the boss’s price, they shared the difference with the chief apprentice. This way Apevienyiku grew not only in carpentry skills but also financially.
            On Sundays the Togolese Ewes met in front of the railway siding and organized the funeral of departed members through drumming and dancing. Apevienyiku, coming from a family of drummers, soon became the beater of the royal drum, used only on special occasions such as the funeral of an elder. He was soon to distinguish himself in juju powers and became a protector of the group.
            Mr. Senaya was impressed with Apevienyiku’s intelligence and by his exemplary conduct. After three years he became the chief apprentice. Two years later Mr. Senaya found him work at UAC as a junior carpenter. Mr. Senaya had presented him as a relative and so Apevienyiku took on Senaya as a surname. He was now 22. Apevienyiku sent a letter to his father, wishing it would raise his morale.
            Each morning Apevienyiku boarded a small Morris bus with a wooden body from Amakom roundabout to Odum, and then he walked to the UAC carpentry workshop not far from the present-day Kumasi prisons. He had two colleagues, a fat, kind-looking Fante—the
Head of the workshop—and his assistant, a lean Togolese with a shrill laugh. The place had three work benches pushed against the walls. The colleagues welcomed Apevienyiku and showed him what to do. Apevienyiku proved himself up to the task, so much so that when somebody was needed three days later to do some repairs on one of the expatriate’s bungalows at Nhyiaeso, the Head did not hesitate to designate him.
            At Nhyiaeso Apevienyiku stared at the expatriate’s bungalow. He had never seen a house so big. It stood on pillars. The bungalow had a lot of large rooms provided with wide windows. A large, walled compound, planted with ordinary and fruit trees, especially mango and pawpaw trees and flowers in bloom, surrounded the house. All the leaves were shiny green. It was the rainy season characterised by stormy showers.
            The British occupant appeared at the sitting room door and waved Apevienyiku in. He was a tall, thin man with a balding head and a tuft of blond hair. His moustache was somewhat greyish. His skin was pale and he smiled a lot, showing tobacco-blackened teeth. If Apevienyiku had felt badly at ease when the company van deposited him at the gate and the watchman had directed him to the veranda where the houseboy kept him company, now that he faced the expatriate he tried hard not to tremble. He had never been close to a Whiteman before. He had seen Germans at Zebe and the French later on but it was always from a distance. He felt a paralyzing chill run through him. The Whiteman said something and Apevienyiku smiled. The more he talked the more Apeveinyiku smiled.
The expatriate shouted and the houseboy came rushing in and crossed his hands behind his back. The Whiteman explained something to the houseboy who, head bent down, nodded profusely.
            “Come,” the houseboy said in Twi and led Papa behind the house and pointed to loose gutters under the sloping, tiled roof. Apevienyiku nodded and leaned his ladder against the wall. In no time at all he got the gutters back in order. When the company van came to pick him up an hour later, the houseboy tended him a small parcel. Apevienyiku opened it at home to find tinned food. He opened the prepared beef soup, made a face at it, took a small bite and retched. “What a villager I’d been in those days,” was a favourite story he told, accompanied with a wheezing laugh. “Later on when I developed a taste for white people’s food, I wouldn’t allow anybody to touch a bit of it.”
            Soon a reply to the letter he had sent to his father arrived. Sedaya raved for the good news, asked him to be obedient and hardworking. Dzagli was now working as apprentice to a retired health worker. Apevienyiku sent him money to come and see him in Kumasi. Dzagli came two months later. He went back with money for their father, to pay a part of the pawn, and to get married. He took Efoegan with him. Apevienyiku asked Dzagli to come every three months and he did. On the third visit he told Apevienyiku their father was slipping back into ill health. Apevienyiku’s first leave took him home. He brought generous gifts of cloths for family members and money for his father. He settled a large part of the pawn also. Now that they had redeemed a large part of the land, they decided to lease it for farming. That was a fatal error. In those days, people used trees to mark the boundaries of their lands. Apevienyiku came home two years later to find the coconut trees on the boundaries hacked down. Something strange also happened. The land he had redeemed appeared smaller. When he complained, owners of neigboring lands told him not to forget his father’s condition. He left quietly for Kumasi.
            Two months later Apevienyiku was busily planing a piece of mahogany plank for a cupboard when a telegram came for him. He shook as his Togolese colleague opened the message. A telegram hardly brought good news. His colleague took a look at the message and his lean shoulders slumped.
            “What’s it?” Apevienyiku asked, trying not to tremble at the answer.
            The colleague sighed.
            “Is my father gone?” Apevienyiku asked.
            His colleague nodded quietly.  “You are asked to return home immediately.”
            Apevienyiku lowered his head for a long time and when he raised it tears hung in his deep-set eyes and rolled down his hollow cheeks. He obtained a leave of absence and went first to the village. Due to the cost of repatriating the body, the family decided to bury it at Agbanto. Then, as tradition demands for those who have to be buried elsewhere, he sent clippings of his father’s hair and nails to be buried at Asukope.
“You’re head of the Penoukou family now,” extended family members told him after the funeral ceremonies and he felt a big load on his young shoulders. “It’s therefore important that you be protected.”
Apevienyiku had been thinking of that, especially when he had been threatened over the boundary of the land. He went to Agbanto to thank the healer and to ask him for protection.
“There’s no better protection than to have your own deity,” the old man advised.
When Apevienyiku left for Kumasi, he carried a powerful deity with him. Like his father Dzagli accepted Jesus and even became a catechist at Agbanto, a work which was to make his first son and Efoegan become Catholic priests.
            Without his father Apevienyiku felt lost. Sedaya was the reason for his journey to Kumasi. Of course, once there, he found other reasons to stay in the Gold Coast such as bettering his life; besides, the vibrant Togolese community in Kumasi didn’t make him feel homesick and also there was still the land to be paid for.
Back to Kumasi Apevienyiku moved to Asafo and hung charms and talismans all over his room. He now observed lots of taboos such as not whistling at night, not eating pork, not keeping dogs, and not eating food prepared by a menstruating woman.
            If his father’s death disoriented him, however his orders guided him.
“One of dad’s last words to me was for us to get married and have a lot of children so that the Penoukou family wouldn’t disappear,” Dzagli had told him after the funeral.
            Now he had two tasks to fulfil: finally reclaim their family land and help enlarge the family.
            If the first admonition was finding a solution before his father’s death, the second also didn’t wait. Apevienyiku had been eyeing an aunt’s daughter at the neighboring village of Glidzi-Kpodzi. Anytime he had the opportunity he sent her and the mother gifts. They knew a man doing this would one day ask for their daughter’s hand. Apevienyiku had been thinking of asking his family to do that when news of his father’s death came. Now that his father had been laid to rest, he could go ahead.
            “Dope is a good girl,” they said. “The mother is quiet and the father kind.”
            Dope’s parents had no objection when Apevienyiku’s family asked for her daughter’s hand. “She’s going into her own family,” the mother said.
            Apevienyiku gave the bridewealth of cloth, drinks, and money and the marriage was blessed by a feast. But his Uncle Eklu went into a rage when Apevienyiku brought his wife home.
            “Why didn’t you consult me before taking a wife?” he fumed.
            “I didn’t intend getting married so soon,” he replied. “I was obeying my father’s instructions.”
            “What about me who brought you to Kumasi?” he said. “Don’t I count anymore?”
            The truth was that Uncle Eklu wanted him to marry a niece of his.
            Seven months later, Dope had to go home to deliver. Normally when a woman gave birth to a baby she stayed with her parents who helped her take care of the child and teach her more childcare. This also forced the couples to space births as the couples would be separated for up to a year and more.
            Apevienyiku discussed the possibility of taking a second wife with Uncle Eklu.
            “Have you informed Dope about it?” he asked.
            “Not yet,” Apevienyiku said. “I thought I’d contact you first.”
            Uncle Eklu smiled. “You know how hardworking Kayissan is.”
            Apevienyiku nodded.
            “What about Kayissan as a second wife?”
            “I’ll talk it over with Dope.”
            That evening Apevienyiku told Dope after meals: “I’m thinking of taking a second wife,” and peered at her. “You know, my father’s exhortation for lots of children.”
            Dope turned away her face, thought for a long time and sighed. “What can I say if you want to take a second wife?”
            “You know I can’t do so without your consent.”
            A brief smile flitted across Dope’s medium-sized lips. “Do you have someone in mind?”
            “Uncle Eklu suggests Kayissan.”
            “Is Agbodrafo not too far from our area?” Dope remarked quietly.
            “The mother is from Zowla.” That was the village after Asukope.
            Dope shrugged.
            With Uncle Eklu acting in lieu of Kayissan’s parents, Apevienyiku performed the marriage ceremonies and Kayissan joined him a month after Dope had left. A month later a telegram came that Dope had given birth to a boy and as custom demands he would be outdoored in seven days. Apevienyiku had rescheduled his leave to coincide with the event and he rushed home.
“Send my greetings to Dope and her child,” Kayissan said at the lorry park.
            As custom demands, the baby had remained indoors for seven days.
“Dope, get the baby ready; I’ll wake the others up,” Apevienyiku said on the eighth day and slipped into the dim courtyard.
On his arrival the day before, he had chosen his eleven-year-old cousin, Ayite, to be the first person to carry the child outside. Babies are believed to copy their “bearers” so parents choose carefully. Ayite had an exemplary character.
Dew hung in the dawn sky and a lantern threw creeping shadows on the mud walls. The gathering stopped chatting when Ayite and Apevienyiku’s stooping uncle strode in.
Uncle Dosseh picked up a calabash of water and snapped afla tovi leaves into it. Afla tovi is an herb believed to bring peace to children on such occasions. Next he dropped
charcoal into the water. Charcoal signifies fire and it is water which puts out fire, so the child should not face hardships in life but have peace.
“Let’s release our prisoner now,” Uncle Dosseh said.
Ayite hopped in and gathered up the baby. Pinching his thick lips in effort, he waddled out. Uncle Dosseh counted, “One!” and Ayite lumbered back into the room. When he staggered out the seventh time, Apevienyiku picked the baby from him. The child has now been shown “light” seven times for its seven days of “darkness.”
Uncle Dosseh sprang to his feet and hurled the calabash of water unto the roof. As it thudded on the rust-coloured roofing sheets, Apevienyiku laid the naked child on the floor. The child clawed and kicked the air and began to whimper. But as the water dripped from the eaves onto it, it let out a sharp, shrill, piercing wail.
Amii!, Amii!” the participants cried with joy. It is considered a bad omen if the child does not cry out.
“This is the first male child of the couple,” Uncle Dosseh said, “And as custom demands, it’ll be called Efoe.”
The group nodded.
Uncle Dosseh fetched fresh water. Throwing a coin into it, he said, “I’m buying this child this name.” The others did the same, repeating Uncle Dosseh’s words as their coins plopped into the water. So now the name Efoe belonged to Apevienyiku’s child just as something becomes yours when you buy it.
Uncle Dosseh poured libation with water. “Now the child has become a man,” he said. “May the ancestors protect him.”
 Before this prayer only the parents and some close relatives could touch the baby. But after the libation the participants shuffled in turns to Efoe snuggled in his mother’s lap, sucking breast milk. They shook his hands, pinched his cheeks and joked about him being a glutton.
Apevienyiku began a song in a deep voice. His guests joined in, beating their chests. Soon they burst into dancing. They feasted until the rising sun began to get hot. Then they shook hands and drifted from the house.
When the last person left, Dope laid Efoe on a sleeping mat and sighed with happiness. Now she could carry her baby everywhere.
            “Mmm, the baby’s growing.” Apevienyiku returned to Kumasi three weeks later to find Kayissan’s stomach protruding. “Are they twins?” he joked.
            “Your Dope didn’t give you twins, am I the one to do so?” Kayissan joked. “Anyway, how are they?”
            “Alright,” Apevienyiku said. “He looks just like me. Dope sends you greetings.”
            Six months later Kayissan also left for home to deliver. Apevienyiku went to outdoor her baby too. It was a boy so they renamed Dope’s child Efoegan—Efoe Senior—and Kayissan’s Efoevi—Efoe Junior. Apevienyiku returned with Dope and her child to Kumasi to continue the task of procreation. It was in this way that he had a child almost each year.
            At the end of five years he called his wives.
            “We’ve five children now,” he said. “More will certainly follow. There’s the need for each of you to be financially independent to take care of the kids too.”
            The women nodded, staring at their fingers they twitched in their laps and not at their husband’s face because that was considered impolite.
            “I’ve arranged with UAC Consumer Goods Department to sell me goods against my salary for Dope to sell cloth and cosmetics.”
            Nagan smiled and stared at Apevienyiku with moist eyes. Kayissan breathed hard and waited for her turn.
            “As for Kayissan, I’ll find a loan for you to sell cooked food.”
            Kayissan’s head jerked up; her eyes were wide and her mouth fell open. “Why should I not sell imported goods too?”
            “Who is the elder wife?” Apevienyiku said, containing his anger. “And who decides here?” His voice rose now.
            “As you wish,” Kayissan said in a hurt tone.
            Apevienyiku knew that if he didn’t kill that rivalry then it would grow into an intractable matrimonial headache. “The decision I’ve taken is in the interests of all. I want everybody to accept it in good faith. But should anybody go to the contrary--” He cast a stern look around. “—I’ll deal ruthlessly with that person as any self-respecting husband should. Okay, you may go.”
            Dope thanked Apevienyiku but Kayissan sighed and rose slowly and sidled out. Apevienyiku sighed too when both women left. He dropped his head into his palms. He knew the competition had begun. But he also knew that he would be the winner. Neither divorce nor rebellion was a solution women envisaged then for marriages they no longer felt happy in.
            The children came in quick succession and soon the house got full of Efoegan, Efoevi, Djatubegan, Djatugbevi, Mesan, Sasu, Hanu, Anani, and Etsri. Now the house at Asafo was becoming too small for the family of twelve so in the early fifties Apevienyiku moved to larger rooms at Bompata.
            Apevienyiku continued to progress in his work with the UAC, much to the chagrin of his co-workers but they dared not show it because of his juju powers.
            One day Apevienyiku was chosen to undertake some repairs at the home of the Managing Director. This was a task normally reserved for their supervisor. But Apevienyiku later learnt that word of his good work had reached the boss’s ears so he had been chosen.
            “The Whiteman says he’d have liked to appoint you head of the carpentry shop,” the cook who served as interpreter told him when he finished building a kennel for a bulldog, “but a literate person must hold this post.”
            Apevienyiku bit his lips and wrung his scrawny fingers.
            “However he says you deserve a salary increase.”
            The Director shook hands with him. Apevienyiku had never felt palms so soft, as soft as foam. His calloused ones embarrassed him. Apevienyiku swore to himself that none of his children will miss school. But soon Ashanti King Prempeh II died and rumors of people being killed to accompany the king were rife. Apevienyiku withdrew his children from school. When calm returned, he allowed the boys to go back but kept the girls home to help their mothers.
            “I want Djatugbevi to be able to read and write,” Navi said.
            “I stand by our husband’s opinion,” Nagan cut in.
            “Thank you Efoeganon,” Apevienyiku said. “A good wife does not challenge her husband’s judgement.”
            Years later, Apevienyiku felt remorse for that decision. Only Djatugbegan and Djatugbevi remained illiterate.
            Apevienyiku continued to hug the dream of redeeming the family land, perpetuating the Penoukou family and living the Gold Coast dream. Dzagli continued to come down for money. More children came, including me on May 6, 1953 and then Anumu to be followed by Akolise, Asion, Alugba, Afansi, and the last born, twins called Asu and Ese. Nagan had eleven of them—eight boys and three girls and Navi six—four boys and two girls. Maybe coming from neighboring villages and the large number of children Nagan gave Papa made her the favourite wife. This went contrary to polygamous marriages where the younger wife was doted on. Papa opened a private carpentry shop at home, behind the house, on a vacant lot. He gave money to a kinsman going home who brought him two distant cousins to become apprentices. During the weekends Efoevi joined them. They would fashion tables, stools, and benches out of Wawa and Odum wood. They would carry these to the market and sell them. The best business came prior to the reopening of schools after the long vacation. Many secondary schools were boarding ones and the students took along provisions and other food items such as shito—fried pepper stew.
            Papa’s private practice was booming, but one problem worried him. He still felt the weight of illiteracy. Although he could read the meter rule and measure wood, he couldn’t write. Some customers brought diagrams of what they wanted and Papa would stare at the paper and nod as the customers explained something to him. But he understood nothing. When they left, he would call Efoevi to interpret the diagram for him. Often Efoevi couldn’t.
            Schwine,” Papa would mix the German and the English words, “why did I send you to school?”
            “I wasn’t seeing the diagram when the man was giving the explanation,” Efoevi would say.
            Papa put his hand to his lips, shushing Efoevi up, who scowled and murmured, being careful to hide his face.
            Other times some customers asked Papa to give them receipts for the down payments they gave and full receipts for jobs delivered. The worst was when demanding customers went away because they couldn’t wait for him to find someone to write the receipts for him. Papa would curse the person who charmed his father forcing him to drop out of school.
             Those were not the only difficulties Papa was facing at that time. As the fight for independence of the Gold Coast colony from Britain heated up, the rivalry between Kwame Nkrumah’s Convention People’s Party (CPP) and Dr. J. B. Danquah’s United Party (UP) deepened. This was translated into violence which included physical attack and the throwing of Molotov cocktails. Bompata was adjacent to Zongo which harboured CPP supporters. These comprised mainly people from the north who were fearless and warlike. The locals inhabited Bompata. They also came from a tradition of warriors and supported the UP. Station Street separated our house from Zongo. Our home stood on the war front.
            Soon 1957 came and three events marked it in our house. The first one was unique: the attainment of political independence by the Gold Coast which became Ghana and the second was the annual purification ceremony for Papa’s deities in August and four months later Christmas.
I remember the last two events vividly because they were annual events. At four I was too young to remember what happened at Ghana’s independence on March 6, the first by an African country south of the Sahara. But my parents say the jubilation was astounding. Finally the parasitic colonialists were going and Africans were going to make life rosy for their own people.
            Five months later Papa brought home drinks and two- and four-legged animals. On the first Saturday a large number of Togolese met in our house. The elders went in and poured libation before the deities and slaughtered the animals whose blood they sprinkled on the gods. This renews the powers of the gods. The participants sang, drummed, danced, and feasted till the evening. This ceremony made me discover my allergy to mutton. Much as my parents forced me, I just couldn’t eat it. So every August, I had a pigeon or a fowl all to myself.
            A day after breaking for Christmas holidays, we and our landladies’ children trekked to the woods behind the sawmills at Timbermu. Using cutlasses and being on the lookout for mambas which often slithered through the thick bamboo, we cut the trees which we tied together and carried home. Then we levelled a patch of land beside Papa’s private workshop and erected a two-room Christmas hut covered with thick cartons we fetched from the shops at Odum or from the rubbish heap behind the Kumasi prison walls. Then we hung the ceiling with paper decorations and the walls with photographs of stars such as Gordon Scott, Elvis Presley, and John Wayne.
            We would shout ourselves hoarse to films we showed with figures cut of paper which we brandished before candle lights to throw images on the walls. At night we slept at home but when Baba Musa cried for the 5 a.m. prayers we rushed to the hut to sleep till the bells of the St. Peter’s Catholic Cathedral chime at 6. We spent the night of 24th December in there—apart from the midnight church service—and on the 25th our parents brought us food and drinks. We felt proud to receive them in our house.
            A cold war atmosphere reigned between Nagan and Navi each Christmas. It seemed Papa lavished Nagan and us with gifts whilst Navi and her children received something symbolic.
            After one Christmas, Papa asked us to attend catechism lessons at the St. Peter’s Cathedral. This concerned Anani, Etsri, me, Alugba, and Akwele, Dzatugbgan’s daughter who was staying with us. We jumped and jumped. Going to church was as civilised as going to school. Besides, we dreaded going to hell. Soon we were learning Catholic dogmas in Ewe on the veranda of the St. Peter’s Middle School. The lessons were in pure Ewe which, compared to the Ge-Mina our parents spoke at home, was like ghetto slang and the Queen’s English. No doubt we had difficulties absorbing the lessons. Unknown to us, the more difficult was to come. When we had to be tested orally for baptism, the Ewe priest, Father Kugblenu, was transferred. It was an Ashanti priest who received us. He asked me only two things: to recite The Lord’s Prayer and Hail Mary in Twi.
            “Father, we learnt it in Ewe,” I stammered.
            “I know,” the priest said. “You speak Twi, don’t you?”
“Yes, father.”
“Then you can tell me in Twi,” he said and stared at me.
I tried to recite those prayers silently in Ewe and translate them in Twi but felt I would make a fool of myself.
“Wouldn’t you talk?” the priest said.
“I can’t do it in Twi,” I said, almost crying.
The priest shrugged, wrote something down and nodded me out. The world whirled. I regretted for attending only Ewe mass service; another requirement of our parents. Outside we all criticised the priest. When the results were announced a week later, only Alugba passed.
“Look at these old fools,” Papa roared. “How can your younger sister pass and you fail?”
We abandoned catechism.
In addition to geomancy Papa became proficient in herbs too. After receiving people in consultation each evening for love affairs, jobs, litigation, marriage, promotions, and chieftaincy disputes, Papa would prepare herbs. I was still in primary school when Papa took me as his secretary. I didn’t want to have anything to do with juju.
“You want to become a doctor?” Papa said.
I nodded. It had been a childhood dream.
“Learn herbs,” he advised.
Each evening Papa showed me herbs and how to prepare them for various ailments. I took them down merely to please him. At midnight some people came for ritual baths and special prayers. This disturbed my sleep. On weekends we drank herbs, especially an infusion of the bark of the mahogany tree. It had a crimson color and Papa claimed it was a blood tonic.
“Keta people, are great drinkers of herbs,” our mothers sang to handclapping to encourage us to drink the bitter potion.
“Great drinkers of herbs,” they continued.
We shut our eyes, cut off our respiration, and gulped down the drink.
            Papa went home on leave in 1960 to witness Togo’s independence on April 27. Sylvanus Olympio became the President. On his return Papa brought a new powerful god. The more deities he brought home the more powerful Papa became. His fame reached important Chiefs who invited him to their palaces to perform ceremonies for them, especially for protection against evil. But the place Papa displayed his powers most was at the weekend Ewe drumming and dancing.
            The Togolese Union had broken into two factions, that of inhabitants from villages around Glidzi—the Ge royal town behind Glidzi-Kpodzi—and that of the Xulokoe group from other villages. Uncle Eklu depended on Papa for protection against evil from the Xulokoe group.
            On Sundays the groups drummed and sang at the same place separated only by a thirty-meter stretch of land. They used the drums to send messages to each other. Then they would burst into songs full of acrimony for each other. When that did not disarm a faction, they now resorted to juju powers. It consisted of making the skin on the drums to tear in action. So each group brought reserve drums which were changed with jeers. When that happened, they “called the rain” for the rival group. The sky darkened and then showers fell only where the other grouped. Papa had the power to call the heaviest rainfall, disrupting the other group’s party. Sometimes they sent emissaries secretly to him at night. Papa told them not to throw any charms their way and all will be alright. But easier promised than done. One day the Xulokoe group hurled tsakatu at Papa’s group. This charm mystically wedges pieces of broken bottle in an enemy’s body, bringing death within hours. Papa’s uncle had received it. Papa removed a deity lodged into a cow’s horn, blew on it and pronounced some cabalistic words. Instantly his uncle was on his feet and the leader at the other side got paralysed. The
Xulokoe people had to see Papa to heal him. From that day the splinter group went elsewhere for their drumming sessions and Papa became one of the influential members of his group. No major decision was taken without consulting him. Nagan, Navi, and we the children not only felt proud of Papa but also feared him.
            By now Efoevi had completed elementary school which consisted of six years of primary and four of middle school. He decided to become a tailor and was apprenticed to a master tailor. Papa had many children in school now. The grown-ups worked at his private workshop on weekends. He now had people to help him interpret drawings, draw up contracts, and write receipts. His business grew.
            But Apevienyiku faced a dilemma. For the least occasion the natives reminded him that he was a foreigner. And foreigner at this time did not necessarily mean a non-Ghanaian but anybody who was not an Ashanti. I remember the day Papa gave a portly customer adorned with golden trinkets the estimates for a king-size bed.
            “Papa Anwona, you like money!” he exclaimed. “Do you want to take all the money in Kumasi to your place?”
            Papa hardly answered such provocations.
            What hurt us most was when Papa had an argument with an Ashanti. “I know you’re provoking me to kill me,” the native would say.
            “Kill you, are you a fowl?” Papa would retort.
            “Killing is an Anwoma sport.”
            In effect some Ewes had appeared in the news for murdering people to use their blood or their hearts for ritual purposes. Ashantis harped on this to brandish us blood-thirsty. This made us hate our tribe.
            “We don’t kill the people to accompany your dead chiefs,” Papa once retorted to a native who continued to taunt him.
 “You’ve insulted the whole Ashanti nation,” the riled native cried and called on the patriotic sentiments of his fellow Ashantis. Although the days of Ashanti war-hegemony were gone with the disappearance of Kingdoms, they didn’t hesitate to threaten people with the terror their name evoked in tribes in days past. Papa also knew their weak point: their fear of Ewes as people with juju power.
            “I’ll charm you dead before your war breaks out,” Papa swore and the native burst off, casting fearful glances behind him as if Papa meant what he said.
            Rivalry between Nagan and Navi had reached its height and they avoided each other as much as possible, especially when Papa was away. Let the least argument break out between us the siblings and they would tear at each other. When Papa learnt about this he attacked Navi.
            “You’re the younger wife,” he would say. “Why don’t you wait for me to come home to complain to me?”
            “I’ve a heart of flesh as your preferred wife,” Navi would retort.
            “How can you talk back to me?”
            “Be partial, at least once!”
            “Nobody is on my side,” Nagan would say.
“Who feels it know it,” Navi would retort and tempers would fly.
After neighbors had diffused the tension Papa’s hands flew in Navi’s face. We would hide behind objects and tremble.
             One vacation Efoegan who was in the major seminary in Benin came on holidays.
            “What are all these?” he cried, pointing to the charms hanging in the rooms.
            Papa scowled.
            He told Papa about Jesus being the only way. Papa only nodded.
            By this time we the children spent more time with our Ashanti friends. The more we mixed with them the more we clung to their ways. And the more we showed their mentalities at home the more our parents got crazy.
            Papa now returned from work often tired. He worked mainly at the expatriates’ bungalows. He would learn of trouble between his wives or children, sigh and say: “I need my peace now.” He laughed when the locals taunted him. And as for us, he got tired of using the cane to make us true Ewes. “It’s not your fault,” he would say. “If I’d stayed at home would you have become strangers?”
            Tired of feuds between his wives, Papa informed Uncle Eklu who summoned them for mediation. Papa rode in silence in the same truck-taxi as his wives. Uncle Eklu’s wife received them in their wide hall furnished with large sofas with red vinyl cushions. Soon Uncle Eklu waddled in.
            “Have you drunk water already?”
            Papa and his wives nodded.
            “You’re welcome,” Uncle Eklu said on sitting down. “What matter has brought you here?”
            “Neither death nor war,” Papa said while his wives lowered their heads and wrung their fingers. “I came to see you the other day about troubles in my family.”
            Uncle Eklu nodded.
            “We’ve come to search for solutions.”
            “You’re welcome,” Uncle Eklu said and turned to Dope. “You’re the elder wife, what’s happening in the house?”
            “Misunderstanding,” she said shyly and peeked at Papa.
            “What misunderstanding?” Uncle Eklu asked.
            “I think my number two can’t accept that an elder wife has more privileges.”
            “Is that all, Dope?” Uncle Eklu asked.
            “Yes.”
            The uncle turned towards Kayissan. “What’s happening in the house?”
            Kayissan sighed. “I heard her say misunderstanding. It’s none of that.”
            Uncle Eklu and Papa stared at each other. Dope sighed. Kayissan scowled.
            “What’s it then?” Uncle Eklu asked.
            “Bias.”
            Papa groaned. 
            “Can you explain that?” the uncle asked.
            “I’m not made to feel like a wife.” She burst into tears.
            “Apevie’ku,” Uncle Eklu said. “I see the solution to your problem: find the same capital for each of them. The one who does better in a year will get more. Besides, with that capital each wife takes care of herself and her children.”
            “I’ve more children to care for,” Nagan protested.
            “Your husband isn’t going to abandon the children altogether. Only you wouldn’t have to ask him for every small thing.”
            Papa put the suggestion into practice and some peace returned to his house.
            If he found marital peace, the same wasn’t true for the behavior of his children. Papa’s fear now that he had adolescent children was for them to get married to Eblus—Ewe word for Ashantis. He was not worried about the girls who already had marriages arranged for them with their countrymen; but the boys who had more freedom of movement and of choice. He began to take us to singing and dancing rehearsals. When we were called to dance, we rubbed our teary eyes with the backs of our palms and ground our toes into the soil.
            “Dance!” Papa would howl.
            We burst into tears.
            “Which stupid children are these?”
            “You should’ve trained them as Ewe children from birth,” somebody observed. “It’s too late now. They’re Ashantis.”
            “Ashantis?” Papa screamed. “I’ll give them away!” Then he shoved us by the back of our heads and we slunk away in shame and tears.
            Back at home Papa tried to solve this problem otherwise. “I know you can’t dance and you’re ashamed to show it in public,” he said. “Here, there are no inquisitive eyes and cruel mouths to laugh at you.” Then, slapping his palms, he burst into song.
            We crouched, stamped our feet and bending and twisting our backs, fanned our arms beside our bodies. There was no feeling in what we did: we smirked and stole looks at each other.
            “Put in some fire,” Papa cried.
            We bent down lower and danced harder.
            Tsa! Tsa! Tsa!” Papa encouraged.
            We danced harder still but in an uncoordinated manner.
            Papa burst into laughter. “ Efoeganon, Efoevinon, come and see your children!” he yelled.
            Nagan and Navi appeared at the door; this time we danced in a lethargic way, the breath wheezing out of our noses. Our mothers burst into laughter too. We laughed and hugged each other.
            Papa tried on other times, those times accompanied by Nagan beating a gong and Navi rattling a castanet but the more he tried the more irritated he became till he gave us up for lost Ewes.
            Then it occurred to Papa that if he didn’t often take his children home he risked losing them altogether. He was so attached to the homeland that when I started secondary school and he learnt that we were to learn French, he went wild.
“Take it as serious as if it was your life,” he said. “One day you’d need it back home.”
            Papa took us home in turns, the way he did with Nagan and Navi. My turn came at the end of secondary school form one.
            “How would you like to go to Lome?” Nagan asked me one evening.
            I sprang into the sky. If before we had repudiated our land, now we were eager to see it. An army coup d’état on January 13, 1967 had overthrown President Olympio who lost his life. At a French lesson we had read a chapter on a visit by a student to Lome. That endeared the city to me. The day before the journey I couldn’t sleep. My parents prepared boxes of gifts of clothing, cloth, jewels, footwear, and cash for relatives. Nagan prepared beef stew to be eaten with rice on the journey.
            I sprang to my feet before Nagan could shake me awake. My sisters helped us to carry the bulky luggage to the railway station down our street. The brightly lit station milled with
people. While Papa joined the queue to buy the tickets at the entrance, we went to sit on the hard wooden benches. I ogled the dark train before me. Beyond it morning traffic slid on the road cut on the waist of a hill on which the Yaa Akyiaa Girls School stood. Soon Papa came; minutes later the lights blinked on in the coaches and we scrambled aboard. I stared with moist eyes at Papa and Nagan. They conversed about home. Soon the train whistled and lurched forward. Jumping, I waved hilariously to my sisters who grinned back. All along I stared through the windows at the changing vegetation, till the train, which got more and more crowded at each stop, reached Accra. The journey by bus from Accra to the border was uneventful until we got to Aflao. The waves of the sea crashed against the shore. The booming and somersaulting waves a few meters away from the border post threw fear into me. I clutched Nagan’s rough hands.
            “What’s eating you?” Nagan cried, flabbergasted.
            “I’m afraid of the sea,” I whined.
            “An old man like you?” she sneered, pushed me away and got busy declaring her property to the border guards in khaki uniforms.
            The two month stay got me disillusioned about Togo. We drank salty water from wells. Not only did I not know how to draw water from a well but also it frightened me staring into its depths. I feared I would tumble into it. Only very few streets of Lome were tarred; most were full of beach sand difficult to walk in. What I hated most was going to toilet. In Kumasi we had public septic toilets. In Lome we went to toilet in the bush. I constantly watched for the pigs which grunted at a short distance away and scrambled to slurp the faeces. I went for days without easing myself. How glad I was to be back in Kumasi!
            Papa was pensioned in 1970. He had been thinking of moving home after this event. He didn’t want to take his deities with him. He performed ceremonies for them and we dumped them at the rubbish heap.
            “Don’t look back when returning home,” Papa warned.
            On my way back I fought hard the desire to look behind me. If I didn’t it was all because of the story of Sodom and Gomorrah we had learned at Catechism. I was afraid to turn into a pillar of salt or something horrible like that. I was happy however that Papa was finally going to be a Christian.
            To make his return home possible, Papa began to build a house at Nyekonakpoe, on a piece of land only sixty meters away from the Ghana-Togo border.
            Age had always posed a threat to people, no matter how powerful they are. Papa discovered this in his sixties. He became powerless to act when an argument—now rare—broke up between his wives. Efoevi brought home a Fante woman he later married to Papa’s chagrin. Now, instead of threats he would quietly advise us to look for wives within the Ewe community. A few did so but others still married strangers. While we wouldn’t attend events such as funerals and rejoicings organized by Ewes, we were present at those of Ashantis. Some of my brothers even took Ghanaian passports to travel overseas. Papa shook his head and sighed when he spoke Ewe to his grandchildren and none was capable of answering in Ewe. Instead they answered in Twi.
            A few years after the overthrow of President Nkrumah on 24th February 1966, tribalism and nationalism began to rise in Ghana. To give credence to his fight for African unity, the Nkrumah constitution gave automatic Ghanaian nationality not only to every
African born in Ghana but also those who had spent twelve years there. With the suspension of that constitution, automatically nationalized Ghanaians became aliens.
            Now Papa worked at home. He had trained many apprentices who were working on their own. The quality of Papa’s training spread his fame at home and every kinsman wanted him to train his child. In Kumasi Papa’s carpentry craftsmanship brought in the customers, especially those who knew him at UAC. But he did not have the strength to work as before. His educated children didn’t want to be carpenters but offices workers.
            By now the military had given power to an elected civilian regime headed by Dr. K. A. Busia, an opponent to Nkrumah who had returned from exile after the coup. Whether it was the opposition to Nkrumah and his ideas or plain nationalism, the Busia regime began to bring out alien-unfriendly policies. Papa knew that he did not intend to spend all his life in Ghana but he was not prepared for the aggressive way Ghanaians were pressing for foreigners to leave the country. We now understood Papa for telling us not to take Ghana as our homeland.
            The shock came in 1969 when the government came out with the Aliens Compliance Order. All foreigners who didn’t have residence permits or who have not been legally naturalized were given a deadline to leave.
Ko wo krom!”—Go back to your country—became the slogan Ghanaians hurled at their fellow Africans. The large number of aliens, especially from the West African countries of Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Upper Volta now Burkina Faso, Mali, Niger, and Ivory Coast, found themselves in a dilemma. They had received so much hospitality in Ghana that many had made it their home. Many even had landed properties there. All of a sudden they found themselves obliged to leave. Some managed to sell off their immovable properties but many
lost theirs. All father lost were the rest of his gods which enabled him to become new born Christian.
            Like other West African aliens who had spent many years in Ghana, we returned to Kumasi after the storm of Ko wo krom had blown over. Our neighbors, who had been asking when Papa would be back, hugged him and wished him a warm welcome. We felt loved.
            But Papa had no good reason to remain in Ghana anymore. Phosphate boom was allowing Togo to make economic strides. Lome was developing with tarred streets, street lights, and other infrastructures. On the contrary the Ghanaian economy was sliding into the doldrums. This continued right into the late seventies which bred a lot of coup d’états and counter coup d’états which finally obliged Ghanaians too to immigrate to other African countries culminating in their being sent home too from oil-rich Nigeria in 1981.
            After welcoming Efoegan from Rome as a priest in 1972, Papa and Nagan decided to remain in Togo. Papa took his younger children with him. Many continued their education in English by crossing daily over the Ghana-Togo border to go to school at Aflao. The rest of us stayed with Navi, brothers, sisters, or relatives to continue our education. On obtaining our certificates, only I went back to Togo to continue my University education. I only took this decision when my application to read Pharmacy at the University of Science and Technology got miraculously missing.
            In Togo Apevienyiku was able to overcome his dilemma of his family living in four worlds.
He was now living in his country and felt free of the fear of being asked to go back home. Nobody also felt jealous of him becoming rich—whatever that meant—in their country. But we the children went home to find ourselves strangers: our mannerisms were
generally Ghanaian and particularly Ashanti. Our haircuts and clothing amused the Togolese a lot. Those were days when we had “Tokyo Joe” haircut: a clump of hair rising from the back of the head towards the forehead surrounded by closely-cropped hair showing the scalp.
“Ghana! Ghana! Ghana!” people shouted derogatorily in the streets as we walked about. “What kind of haircut is that?”
We looked for a hole to disappear into. There was none and we had to face the jeers on the way back home. Most of us could only go about in the night when we would be largely unnoticed.
Also we spoke Ge-Mina and French with Ghanaian and English accents respectively.
“Are you Ghanaian?” people would ask us scornfully.
We would scowl and not answer.
The jeers as we spoke made us mute and we pined for Kumasi.
Papa joined cultural groups in Lome. He would come home flushed. Not only did they enjoy the dance, the spectators joined in the fun and that encouraged them to excel beyond their possibilities. Papa knew we wouldn’t fit into that group and didn’t worry us to come along with him. We had even attained the age of independence and Papa left us alone.
While he remained in Lome, he sent his wives to their villages. They were now women in menopause and all a pro-birth person like him needed them for was cooking but he had grown-up daughters for that. From time to time Apevienyiku visited his wives in their villages or they came to see him in Lome.
Papa attended mass service at Eglise de l’Immaculé Conception de Nyekonakpoe from time to time. He would come home bragging about how people stared at his rich kente or big
royal cloth thrown over his shoulder with a rich lace jumper under it. That was the rare thing the Togolese admired about Ghana.
These days a new trend is showing: those of us married to spouses born and bred in Togo have kids with Togolese mentality and those kids born in Ghana have become worse than us. Not only do they not speak Ewe at all—although they understand it—but also they feel hundred percent Ghanaian and do not envisage returning home. The same is true of Dzagli’s children in the Republic of Benin.
Thus through our grandfather’s sickness and cruel death, the Penoukou family has been spread over Ghana, Togo, and Benin and still spreading elsewhere, including Europe—especially France—and America. The family is still small compared to others but with the exception of the women who have given large members to other families the men have limited number of children. I sometimes wonder how grandfather would feel about it in his grave; maybe his children should be blamed for not exhorting us to have large families. But if they had they would have failed because not only is it unfashionable now to have large families but also economic difficulties dissuade it.

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